What’s in a name? A lot, reckons 4x4Eplorer.co.nz’s Richard Soult. Case in point, one of his ex-Christchurch trips, up the mighty Wilberforce River Valley to Fang Hill Hut!

It’s hard to imagine how quickly the Covid-19 virus came upon us and how quickly our lives have changed since. 

A week into lockdown (as I write this) our trip into the Wilberforce seems like a lifetime, rather than just two weeks, ago,  and at the time we were still planning a big Easter trip to Central Otago and beyond…

Strange days indeed, though no use dwelling on them I suppose. For instance, there’s just something about heading off for a weekend trip knowing that you are on your way to ‘the Wilberforce.’ It’s certainly a great trip, but I think there’s more to it than that. Like the very name, Wilberforce, which conjures up images of something powerful and remote. Throw in Fang Hill Hut and you’ve got something that sounds like it needs to be taken seriously.

A taste a few weeks before!

I had been on a club trip a few weeks prior with Fang Hill Hut as the objective. We were camping at the Harper Campsite near Lake Coleridge and Mark Wilson led the trip. We had a few novices with us without snorkels and when we arrived at the first crossing and entry point, we found the river fast flowing and milky – always a sign of rising water levels. We could also see that it was raining further up the valley, so a decision was made to tackle the Harper instead. A very good call on Mark’s part and we still had a fantastic day out 4x4Exploring!

The meeting point for this (second) trip was Windwhistle. Waking up in Christchurch early on Saturday morning, the day was grey and overcast and I feared that we would face the same accessing the Wilberforce. 

Once out of Christchurch however, the cloud disappeared and it turned into a perfect day. At Windwhistle, I found a few of the usual suspects, Scott Grey, Hayden Moore, and Calvin and son Toby Johnson. 

I had been told that Toby, aged 12, loves recoveries and would be the first out in mud or water to get straps attached and run out winch cables. A very useful member of the team!

We joined the gravel just north of Lake Coleridge settlement and headed up towards Mt Oakden. I really wish that we had decided to ‘air down’ as soon as we hit the gravel, as some of the corrugations were real boneshakers. 

A good day made even better!

Once onto the Wilberforce Riverbed, we could see that the river was low and running crystal clear and barely a cloud in the sky. This was going to be Epic!

With safety in numbers, well prepared trucks and with all the recovery gear that we could want for, the drive up the valley was great fun! As with most braided rivers, route finding can be a bit difficult sometimes and quite often we were forced to back track due to a steep washed out bank or a deep section with a steep exit bank.

On a couple of occasions, the shovels came out and a bit of “gardening” was involved to create a ramp that we could negotiate.

One of the things that never ceases to amaze and impress me is simply the vastness of these valleys. It’s so easy to lose the scale of things in these great wilderness places that we have access to. We are truly privileged in New Zealand!

Burger with a view

Our lunch stop was going to be Fang Hill Hut, only the roof of which is visible from the valley floor. So we were careful to use the pre-recorded GPS track to make sure that we didn’t miss it. A short section of track through mature Matagouri left a few scratches on the trucks and we arrived at the hut. 

There were a couple of hunters already there and after the customary “Did you see anything?” conversation, the Rhinorack Batwing came out, providing welcome shade from the sun. The 4x4Explorer burgers were underway and we sat there and enjoyed the expansive views both up and down the valley from whence we had come.

As we continued up the valley, crossing the river and smaller side streams multiple times, we passed Moa Hut on the true right of the valley and continued up towards Sebastapol. Here we turned north and headed up to Urquhart’s Hut, our destination for the night.

Maaate!

As we approached the hut, a call came over the radio. “We are not alone!” When we arrived, there were about eight other trucks of all types and specifications including a standard 200 series Prado on what looked like road tyres. 

It turned out to be a local 4WD club and quite a few were known to my companions. We were told that no one was sleeping in the hut, so we could have it if we wanted it. I was the only one planning on sleeping in the hut, but after a brief inspection decided that the back of the truck was probably a better option. 

Whilst Urquhart’s hut would certainly be a welcome shelter in a blizzard, it can probably best be described as rustic. There is a dirt floor and most of its inhabitants have four legs and a long tail!

We got ourselves set up for the evening and once the BBQ was finished, a few pieces of dry wood converted it to a brassier and the focal point for the evening’s discussions.

First up

Not long after turning in for the night, I quickly realised the error of my ways. The sleeping bag that I had brought along was definitely not man enough for the job at all! An extremely cold and restless night lead me to being the first up and about by several hours.

Whilst I was cold, there is something very special about watching the sun slowly illuminate the tops and then creep towards you across the valley floor. By the time the rest of the group was up and about, we were in the sun and warmth had returned.

After a leisurely start and a hearty cooked breakfast, we set off back out the way we had come in the previous day. Route finding was equally as difficult, but I had logged the route on the way in so was able to offer advice on whether our previous track had been to the left or the right.

We stopped again at Fang Hill Hut and soaked up the views, discussing what we should do at Easter, not knowing that this would be our last trip out for the foreseeable future.

Last hurrah!

Back at the tar seal, we aired up and went on our different ways with a quick “See you at Easter”. Little did we know what the next ten days would bring...

Who knows what will have happened by the time this is published. 

Until the rest of the world gets their house in order it is likely that there will be ongoing restrictions on foreign travel, but hopefully we will again have access to these wilderness areas that are so special to us in the New Zealand Overlanding community.

If that is the case, we look forward to seeing you out there!

As always, details on this route are available on
https://www.4x4explorer.co.nz/?aff+2818  together with nearly 800 others.