Bolivia is the poorest country in the whole South America. But also the most beautiful at the same time, in my opinion. Story and photo by Jakub Cejpek (www.cejpek.com)
The country’s high altitude desert called the Altiplano reaching from Peru to Argentina represents one of the most surreal landscapes on the planet, and offers great experience for a traveller willing to cope with low temperatures, furious wind and lack of oxygen. I would not be able to live in this place at all, but visiting it is another story. I can recommend it wholeheartedly, and I am quite sure you will not regret it if you accept its rules. Sure, New Zealand also has the volcanic landscape, but the scale of Altiplano is far greater than Ruapehu region.
In the wheeltracks of Rally Dakar
All right, so there is a nice piece of land, but this is an off-road magazine. Is there any potential for tarmacless driving at all? You bet! The possibilities are literally endless. In fact, you can drive wherever you want as long as you have the knowledge, skills and guts to survive the severe environment. If in doubt, you may have noticed, that the famous Rally Dakar has moved from Africa to South America some years ago and the difficulty of the race has not been lowered at all. In fact, thanks to the altitude and extreme conditions, it is supposed to be more challenging than before.
Southwest circuit
Do not be scared though. Bolivian landscape rewards the discomfort greatly. Glacier peaked volcanoes are reaching over six thousand metres and contrary to expectations, the desert if full of life. Pink flamingos occupy half frozen lagoons and surrounding prairies are home to hundreds and thousands of llamas and Vicunas. You cannot but admire their survival ability in the harsh conditions with temperatures falling to minus -20 degrees combined with un-forgiving 100 km/h wind. But let's get back to off-road driving.
There are several options as to how to explore this part of the world. You can ship your beloved vehicle to South America (the most time and money consuming way, yet the most comfortable and experience-providing), you can rent the car (if you have the courage and skills) or you can rent the vehicle with a local driver (ideal for inexperienced tourists like us).
If you choose one of the first two options mentioned, do not underestimate your journey. Navigation is totally essential as well as the capability to cope with any mechanical failures (they will come). Take plenty of supplies with you as well, because there are no shops and petrol stations bar those in the bigger towns at the edge of the desert.
Route to City of Charm
If you are not quite adapted to high altitude and cold climate, the city of Tupiza is a good place to start. It is located below 3000 metres and the surroundings, with colourful rocks, cacti and palm trees resemble those in the Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid movie. There are many possible itineraries you can plan, but the following spots are highly recommended and worth visiting. You can also check the list of favourite places in info box below when planning your trip to Bolivia. Expect nothing but gravel roads and salt surface in the following 3–5 days and over a 1000 kilometres but no especially difficult terrain (if you do not choose one on purpose).
From Tupiza, drive westwards through Palala Gorge to a small village of Awana Pampa. There are many great viewpoints on the way, and the landscape changes dramatically. You will gain the altitude, the wind gets stronger and the prairie turns into mountain desert. You will encounter first llamas and evidences of past and present mining activity in this mineral rich region. Take a short detour to a magnificent rock formation called Ciudad del Encanto (City of Charm) and stretch your legs while exploring this beautiful natural phenomenon.
Endless Salar
You should not miss more great spots on the route. Blue-green Laguna Verde with ice covered shores and magnificent backdrop of the volcano Licancabur and Laguna Colorada full of flamingos. There are also several hot pools in this area you can take a bath in, making a pretty pleasant break after a day in the freezing cold wind, I can tell you! You can also watch muddy and steamy geysers, but the greatest spectacle is about to come.
Salar de Uyuni occupies the area equal to the whole of the Marlborough District and consists of nothing but salt with extraordinary flatness. The average elevation variation on the whole salt flat is a mere one meter! It resembles a huge frozen lake covered with ice yet you can safely drive across it. The most magnificent views are served during summer months (January to March) when there is a thin water layer on the top of the salt which reflects the sky. If you want to encounter this natural phenomenon be warned though. Salty water will not make your tyres happy!
Nothing but Land Cruisers
Do not think I have forgotten the initial premise. You may have seen many modern SUV advertisements, but the real world test is far beyond all marketing tricks. You will meet tens and hundreds of vehicles on your journey around wild Bolivian southwest. There will be some lonely trucks loaded with valuable ore and a few Nissan Patrols battling with low oxygen and low temperatures. But more than 90% of all cars will be just one model, the Toyota Land Cruiser. No matter if driving on the perfect flat Salar or climbing a dusty road to 5000 metres, you will see nothing but the same silhouette. It looks like there are actually no other off-road cars manufacturers and Toyota cannot wish for a better advertisement. I guess Land Rover should do something about it.
About the author
Jakub Cejpek. Czech mountain enthusiast and photographer, who enjoys all the discomfort of the great outdoors. He has successfully climbed 65 out of 82 European four thousand metre peaks, participated in 10 expeditions around the world ranging from the Andes to the Himalayas and stood at the top of several six thousand metre peaks including Huascarán (6768 m) and Ojos del Salado (6893 m). www.cejpek.com
To read the full story in the August 2018 issue of NZ4WD go to Zinio.com (July 13) or purchase your own hard copy at the Adrenalin store
